{"id":511,"date":"2017-03-15T14:16:33","date_gmt":"2017-03-15T14:16:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/coalfacecostumes.co.uk\/?p=511"},"modified":"2025-04-21T14:04:06","modified_gmt":"2025-04-21T14:04:06","slug":"growing-a-non-stretch-tutu-by-4-inches","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/coalfacecostumes.co.uk\/?p=511","title":{"rendered":"Growing a non-stretch tutu by 4 inches!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Clean again so the pretties are coming back out to play. \u00a0One of the questions I regularly ask during fittings is the growth pattern of the dancer or the possible range of sizes of dancers for a role. \u00a0Where this is potentially large for a tutu, I will always recommend a lycra based tutu as hiding growth in something as fitted and technical as a tutu can be an issue but sometimes that isn’t possible. \u00a0Thus, my job as a designer and builder of costumes is to try to ensure enough\u00a0growth room for the life of the costume, whatever that may be.<\/p>\n

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T16\/02 is back for a rebuild. \u00a0We have already lengthened the tutu by 3.5″ (thus a girth change of 7″). \u00a0Now she has grown across her widths. \u00a0The smallest change is by 2″ but the largest is 4″. \u00a0She can get it on and closed but cannot bend to her toes. \u00a0Can we sort it out? \u00a0Since it is one of mine, I know\u00a0we can. \u00a0I also have been asked by others over the years how to modify a tutu. \u00a0I hope the owner of this beauty doesn’t mind me documenting the let out for other people who may have to do the same alterations.
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Step 1: \u00a0What do you need to do and can you do it? \u00a0<\/strong>We need to take this out by up to 4″. \u00a0All the places which need taking out have enough spare fabric. \u00a0If we didn’t we would need to add pieces with exact fabric matches or reduce seams to gain enough fabric. \u00a0I always keep a record of every fabric used but that doesn’t always mean a perfect match is available, even to me! \u00a0This large change will also have other knock on affects which I will note as I do them. \u00a0I have the spare to do this too.<\/p>\n

Step 2: Unpick the hooks and eyes \u00a0<\/strong>No matter if they are tape or individual, unpick and clean the lose threads. \u00a0If you have access to a stitch ripper use it carefully, otherwise small, sharp scissors will do. \u00a0If you are in a hurry (dancer needed on stage) think about only removing one side if you can get away with it or only removing the hooks and eyes you need to move. \u00a0If you have lots of spares you may just be able to add new rows in depending on construction techniques.<\/p>\n

Step 3: Basic mathematics \u00a0<\/strong>In our case we need an extra 2″ at the waist, 3.5″ at lace and 4″ at top. \u00a0Split these by 2. \u00a0Now mark these halved differences away from the fold line if you have one or the previous sewing edge if not.<\/p>\n

Step 4: Prepare for sewing \u00a0<\/strong>Between these points fold the fabric again to create a new edge. \u00a0Pin (and tack if needed) the hooks and eyes back to their new position. \u00a0Be careful that they are in the same position with respect to the edge as they were previously. \u00a0In my case the hooks are 3\/8″ from the edge and the eyes lined right up to the edge. \u00a0Also ensure that the hooks and eyes line up. \u00a0Best way to do this is to pin one, fix the two together, line up the pieces then pin across before unfixing the two halves to finish pinning.<\/p>\n

Step 5: Resew<\/strong> \u00a0If you have a machine and are confident in its use, use a machine. \u00a0Take the time to position the tutu correctly, to check your needle, foot, threads and settings. \u00a0If you do not have access to a machine or you feel unsafe using it (now is not the time to try the machine you have wanted to. \u00a0Positioning and avoiding breaking needles on metal is enough of a hassle for someone confident with their machine) sew by hand. \u00a0You want to ensure the hooks and eyes are strongly affixed through all layers of backing fabric (often a twill or coutil but may be as thin as a polycotton in some examples I have seen). \u00a0 Stabbing motions will be fine. \u00a0If you are not a confident sewer just stab through the layers many times in and around the metal, ensuring you cross the metal many times. \u00a0If you tug and the whole tutu moves it is strong enough. \u00a0Tie off and move to the next. \u00a0Even with hooks and eyes on tape. \u00a0An over hand stitch fixing the tape to the backing fabric will do after the hooks and eyes are secured.<\/p>\n

Step 6: Fix everything else<\/strong> \u00a0So in this case I had a few extra issues. \u00a0Again if you are in a rush you can do these once the dancer is back off stage in most cases. \u00a0The alteration at the waist was so big I had to further sew the bodice to the basque along the waist stay to ensure the waist stay did not show when the dancer bends forward. \u00a0I do a back stitch. \u00a0The straps had to move and be lengthened. \u00a0I unpicked the stitching and moved them, ensuring I sewed two lines through the backing fabrics for safety sake of one line going onstage (never yet happened to me but…). \u00a0The basque alteration was on an angle which lengthened the seam such that my tape was not long enough. \u00a0I kept the tape low and added a separate hook and eye to the waist tape as my spare hook and eye was stronger. \u00a0If it was weaker or I needed to leave a gap due to time constraints I would have put the gap below.<\/p>\n